“Whoosh” is the sound of the last four months. Or maybe it’s the sound of time in general? I dunno, but all of a sudden it’s almost May, our brief stint in Sitka has come and gone, and we’re trying to pull all of life’s pieces together to make the most of 2026 and beyond. Today seems like a perfect moment to pause and reflect on the past few months before more time and events whoosh past us! Highlights described below: moving back into our Sitka house; friends, community, a shed remodel, so much snow in Sitka; quick trip to SoCal; and the passing of Kayla’s dad.
January 9, 2026 was a beautiful day to fly to Sitka!
Sweet Snowy Sitka
These past few months have confirmed that even though we’ve been loving our nomadic life, we also still love Sitka. First things first when we landed there on January 10: move all our stuff out of storage and back into our little purple house!
So nice to settle back in to this place!
We cleared the shelves where our stuff was stored – thanks to our friends who let us borrow this wall!
Of course all that stuff was then piled all over our house for awhile.
The only furniture we had stored was a table, so these borrowed patio chairs were all we had for a couple weeks …
… until our IKEA order arrived and we had some fun putting together a bed, couch, and chairs.
We enjoyed reconnecting with our friends over dinner and pinball and afternoon walks. It was great to plug back into community events, and do things like subscribe to the local newspaper and pick up some regular radio shows again. We had hoped for some nice spring porch weather, but wow did it SNOW! Sitka normally receives about 33 inches of snow per year …. this year it snowed 32 inches in March alone (and 104 inches total for the winter).
We played our own set at the Monthly Grind, plus joined the closing band to play this round of waltzes. Photo credit to James Poulson.
We also played a couple songs with Charlie and Scott for the guests at Charlie’s birthday party …
… they even sang along a little!
Lovely Piers swooped through Sitka and we got a few hours to catch up with him.
Not pictured: friend Tom, who also swooped through for a moment. Sarah couldn’t join him this time, but we called her and set her up at her spot at the table anyway!
Perfect new shelf behind the couch to hold our morning coffee and evening cocktails.
Feb 28
March 19
March 23
We also got to see some great northern lights.
And eventually the crocuses started to peek through.
And, because we can’t seem to go anywhere without diving in to some big construction project, Matthew made a goal to repair and re-side the utility shed that sits between our two houses. The cold/snowy weather + the challenges of getting construction materials in Sitka delayed this project until April, so once again we had to push against the deadline of our April 20th departure date.
Before: south side.
Before: east side.
Winter jacket and frosty porch are not exactly ideal construction conditions.
While he waited for shed supplies to arrive, Matthew built us some new shelves.
Finally getting to work: April 10
In case there’s any question of whether high tide comes beneath our deck.
April 14
April 19
April 20!
So snazzy!
Winter Travels
We snuck away from Sitka a couple of times – once to Juneau…
So long, Sitka! Another beautiful day to fly SE AK.
Beach hike with Jamie!
Our Juneau friends always manage to find hilarity in the midst of chaos and sadness …
… love them so much and wish we could spend more time together!
… and once to southern California. The SoCal trip was extra-special because we got to celebrate Kayla’s sister Iris being honored as Medical Director of the Year for the Foundation for Post-Acute and Long-Term Care Medicine! Plus we had a few days in one of our favorite spots: San Diego!
Most of Kayla’s family came to Anaheim to celebrate with Iris, so we rented a big house with a backyard pool!
TBH that’s where we spent most of the weekend.
But of course there was the big event!
It was wonderful to be in the audience as Iris received her award …
…and very fun to have a celebratory dinner that evening!
Then we took the beautiful Amtrak route to San Diego …
… where we biked around, walked the beaches, ate CityTaco …
… and had a very fun evening with dear Candace!
Lloyd Boettcher: 1931-2026
The biggest event of the last four months was the passing of Kayla’s dear dad. At 94 years old and experiencing both heart and lung issues, reaching his final days was certainly not shocking, and fortunately things progressed quickly so he didn’t spend much time suffering in discomfort. But even though we were prepared for it, it’s still such a big change in the world as we know it.
We are all so grateful for the time we spent with him last year, specifically focused on helping him distribute his things to new homes and his home to a new owner and sharing photos and stories and card games and laughter. We are planning a very special few days in Storm Lake May 3-5 to celebrate his life with our immediate family and many cousins and friends. I expect those days will include hymns, polkas, and the family choir; card games and maybe shooting some pool; lots of hugs, stories, and laughter/tears; and menus to include pickled herring, pork tenderloins & brats, beer and stingers, and a good steak at Zimmy’s. You can read his obituary here (special side note: he actually “wrote” most of this himself, dictating his thoughts to Iris late one night while hospitalized in late February). Please join us in a toast to this fine fella.
What’s Next?
We plan to spend most of May back in Glenn, Michigan, finishing the painting and other loose ends on Iris’ lake house project, doing a little work on our camper, and enjoying spring in West Michigan. And then we’ll hit the road for one more 4-month road/camping trip! Our plans include driving the Blue Ridge Parkway from south to north; spending Solstice at the Red Wing Roots Music Festival near Charlottesville VA; at least a week each in the Boston/Cape Cod area and Acadia National Park; visiting friends in western MA and *maybe NYC; several weeks exploring upstate NY, VT, NH, ME, and the Maritime Provinces. Our big circle will bring us back to Philadelphia by the third week in September, when we’ll spend a week with family and friends, soaking up history and culture by day and Phillies games by night. Be sure to let us know if/where we can meet up with you along the way!
Happy mid-holidays, friends! We hope you have had safe travels, festive times, and lots of holiday cheer. As we type this, we’re both wrapped in blankets watching a winter storm bluster across Lake Michigan and attempt to topple our construction-site outhouse. Good thing we have one working toilet in the house! More on that in a moment….
Speaking of wind, the last five months have been full and breezy, and it’s remarkable to take this moment to catch our breath and reflect on it all a bit. But we can’t relax too long because this week we need to pack our stuff and return semi-permanently to Sitka! That’s right – if all goes to plan, on January 10 we’ll arrive in Sitka and move back into our house! Prepare yourselves, Alaska friends!
But enough forward-looking, this is a time of reflection, so let’s catch up on the Betties’ antics of the last few months.
Lake House Construction
If you’ve been following our story this year, you know that one of the through-lines is our involvement with the remodel of Kayla’s sister’s cottage on Lake Michigan. We’ve spent a lot of time in this house over the last four years. It’s become our home base in the Lower 48 in-between our other wanderings.
During this time, Iris decided she wanted to turn this summer cottage into a year-round home, and – because we’re suckers for a good house project – we happily agreed to help. Her vision included a small addition to create a better entryway plus one more main floor bathroom; remodel the existing bathroom; install new insulated windows; upgrade all systems (plumbing, electrical, HVAC); and give a facelift to the adorable little guest cabin that sits separately from the main house.
Matthew helped locate a fantastic local building company to help with the big stuff, and they moved on-site in mid-September. Prior to their work and continuing in tandem with the professional crew, Matthew has been the on-site liaison for Iris while also taking on several of the “smaller” projects (like building interior window trim for all 16 new windows and tiling the shower in the guest cabin). We’ve also accepted painting duty, so we’re spending these two weeks painting as many new surfaces as we can before we head to Alaska. The professional crew won’t finish their work until mid-January (tiling and cabinetry are the big remaining items), so we plan to return here in late April to put finishing touches on whatever needs it.
The power was turned off for at least 6 weeks, and prior to Dec 12 there was no running water or functional toilet in the house (hence the port-a-john on the property that’s now being threatened by winter winds). By mid-December, just before the professional crew moved out for their 2-week break, hot water was restored, one toilet on the 2nd floor is functional, and a shower was hooked up in the main bathroom. Here are a few photos from this process; scroll down for headlines from the other adventures we’ve had since August.
New addition on the back of the house – better entryway, plus a master bath added en suite.
To the right you can see the little guest cottage; and in the distance you can see Lake Michigan.
Clever adaptation for the guest cabin: a murphy bed with fold-out table.
New bathroom window for the guest cabin.
Guest cabin shower ready to be tiled.
Before the professional crew moved in, we pushed all the furniture together and covered with plastic.
Dry wall crew created some dust.
Five of the 16 windows that Matthew trimmed out!
Washer/dryer are hanging out in the kitchen while bathroom is remodeled.
No running water for a long time – good thing we know how to camp!
Nice new shower in an otherwise empty bathroom.
AUGUST
Kayla and her sisters went to Chicago to see niece Kristina in an opera. Then Kristina came to visit us in Michigan for a week.
Meanwhile, a new part-time job swept Matthew to Anchorage for 48 hours in August. The Legislature has created a Joint Legislative Task Force on Education Funding, and hired Matthew to shepherd the process and write the final report. This turns out to be kind of a big deal. The Task Force will meet regularly for the next year, with the final report due just in time for a new legislature and a new governor to get things going in January 2027. If he does a decent job, Matthew will know a whole lot about the AK Ed Funding landscape, which we hope will land him an interesting job in-state to occupy his waning useful years.
In late August, after rearranging all the furniture in the lake house as final prep for construction, we took off for two weeks in Minneapolis and northwest Iowa.
A Chicago highlight was an architecture tour by boat.
Kayla and her sisters.
‘Twas so fun to have Kristina visit us in Michigan!
While Matthew had his 48 hours in Alaska, Kayla enjoyed time in Minneapolis – biking with sister Ione …
… and catching up with dear friends like Laura!
Matthew got back just in time for us to see niece Sophia and her band.
Bonus friend time: we overlapped with Juneau friend Jamie in St Paul for just enough time to grab brunch!
September
The main event of our midwest trip was a full Boettcher family gathering in Kayla’s hometown of Storm Lake, Iowa. You may recall that her dad has been in the process of finding new homes for his things, and ultimately finding a new owner for his home – the house he and Kayla’s mom built from scratch when they retired from farming in 1996. Over Labor Day weekend, all 14 members of Kayla’s family came together in Storm Lake for a “house-cooling” event, complete with digitizing 60+ years of family photos (and enjoying stories and slideshows as evening entertainment!), clearing out the last of the household items, sharing conversation and the view from the front porch, and walking through the house together room-by-room to share memories and celebrations of the life lived in that house. What a blessing to have Dad present and fully participating in this process! Plus, we’re happy to report that after 3 months on the market, sale on the house closed just before Christmas – a perfect Christmas gift!
Merry Christmas!
After this, we took a few days to leisurely return to Michigan, making a stop in Ankeny, IA (to visit Kayla’s dear high school friend Bridget), and camping along the Hennepin Canal Parkway in Northern Illinois (a 19th-century attempt at connecting Chicago with the Mississippi River).
Porch chats + grilling
Two of the four scanning stations we had set up to digitize all our family photos.
We threw together a slide show so Dad could tell stories … plus props like Mom’s wedding dress were also on hand!
The “house-cooling” ceremony concludes in the kitchen – memories shared and prayers offered in each room that we visited.
Cleverly setting up a family selfie.
Turned out pretty well!
One of our last nights in the house, finishing up the last of the photo scanning.
So much love for this guy who started it all!
After about 10 days back in Michigan (where Kayla managed to get involved with some garden harvesting / canning), we pointed east and took off again. Our destination was eastern Virginia, but we opted for a new route across Michigan to Port Huron (north of Detroit), across Ontario to Niagara Falls, then south through central Pennsylvania and the northern part of Shenandoah National Park.
Bounty from Iris’ garden …
…. preserved for future enjoyment!
We really enjoyed our time near Niagara (and Four Mile Creek State Park on Lake Ontario!), but didn’t take many photos for some reason.
Funny little campsite near Tyrone, PA.
We also really enjoyed the all-too-brief time we spent near Shenandoah National Park, and the wonderful campground in Shenandoah State Park near Front Royal. We’ll be back!
We arrived at Matthew’s parents’ house in Mathews County on Sept 22 and spent a couple of nights there before heading into Richmond. We had secured a sweet housesitting gig in the Church Hill neighborhood of Richmond for three weeks, which gave us proximity and time with Matthew’s parents, who live about an hour east of Richmond. Church Hill is full of fun little restaurants and bars, and is great for long walks with a good dog. We loved having niece Hannah visit for a few days; we also went to a couple of live music shows (Neko Case and Pokey Lafarge) and spent time with friends who live in the area as well as with Matthew’s family. Everything was fantastic, except for the adventurous chickens who kept escaping their coop!
Church Hill in Richmond is full of historic buildings and remnants of old industry.
Total delight to explore museums and restaurants with Hannah!
Our main responsibility in Richmond was this sweet old girl, Lady …
… plus six backyard chickens.
Lady was an easy pal. We even took her on a day trip to visit Matthew’s parents …
… and tried to get her to enjoy river life. (She did eventually get in, but not by jumping off the dock!)
But those chickens … sheesh. Good eggs, bad behavior.
Pokey Lafarge at the Broadberry!
Several of Kayla’s work colleagues live in Virginia and they had the chance to meet in person.
We loved spending a few evenings with friends Cindy & Dan and their sweet daughters and goofy pug dog.
October
We wrapped up our time in Virginia on October 17 and made our way back to Michigan. Although we would have loved to return at a more leisurely pace, we were feeling some urgency around house construction projects back in Glenn, plus we already had our next round of travel planned for October 29. We had read a little about Blackwater Falls State Park in eastern West Virginia, which is about 5.5 hours from Matthew’s parents’ place, so we made that our first stop. Unfortunately, the state park campground was full but we managed to get a spot at a sweet little private campground called Rest Rite just outside of Davis WV. This whole area is pretty intriguing – hiking, biking, fun small town action – so we’ve added this to our “must-return” list. On 10/18 we wound our way through the WV mountains and just kept going all the way across Ohio. The weather forecast called for really soggy conditions that night, and we were pretty tired, so we drove all the way to Adrian, MI before we stopped and grabbed a hotel room.
Back in Iris’ orbit (but without running water or electricity out at the lake), we moved into the guest room at her house near Grand Rapids. On October 29, Matthew flew to Alaska for two weeks of meetings and Kayla flew to Minneapolis for another 10 days in the midwest, including back to Storm Lake to celebrate Dad’s 94th birthday on Halloween.
November
After a few days in Storm Lake with her dad and sisters, Kayla spent a week in / around Des Moines – first with dear friend Bridget, and then on her own retreat in downtown Des Moines – while Matthew, with unfortunate hair (see below) talked education and visited friends in AK.
Iris and Kayla get some bonus time with niece Sophia in Minneapolis.
Nice fall walks with Bridget …
…including a sunset walk on the High Trestle Trail Bridge crossing the Des Moines River.
It’s part of a 10-mile rails-to-trails path.
Kayla had a splendid time on her own exploring downtown Des Moines …
…and finding more bridges to cross.
Meanwhile, Matthew made official appearances …
…and unofficial appearances.
Best Halloween bar-food hotdog display goes to The Triangle in Juneau.
Downtown Juneau porkupines.
Coming back together in Michigan in mid-November, we took a quick spin to see Jeff Daniels perform an acoustic music show in Owosso, we had a fun Thanksgiving with Iris and her good friend David, and we spent a weekend in Traverse City with our pals Ed and David.
December
And that brings us to December, which has kept us solidly in West Michigan, and for the last 10 days we’ve been living back at the lake full-time, chipping away at house projects and personal goals (like catching up on our blog!), with a brief detour back to Grand Rapids to join Iris for a lovely Christmas Eve of carols and good food. Somehow we need to pull ourselves out from beneath these blankets and figure out what to bring back to Alaska and how to get it there, but for now it’s nice to watch the storm squalls cross over the lake and testify that this house is now certainly more than a summer cottage.
And then what?
Yes, we will be establishing our residence back in Sitka, but we aren’t done road-tripping. While things are up-in-the-air with Matthew’s job through 2026, we hope to sneak back to the Lower 48 for a few months to do a Northeast America road trip – there are still a few places on our map that need more lines! We’ve also got a summer solstice music festival planned in VA, maybe a Philly’s game in Philly … who knows what other fun and adventure is in store?! Maybe we can plan some shenanigans with you!
Yes, we’re still catching up on stories from four months ago. Good grief. But it’s fun to go back and revisit these fun memories!
Our draw to Lillehammer is Kayla’s college roommate, Emily, who moved there around 2010 when her husband Erik landed a job and they could launch an ex-pat life in beautiful Norway. It was truly delightful to spend 6 days with Emily and get better acquainted with their whole family (including their fun and brilliant children, Greta and Henrik, and gorgeous doggo, Lotta).
After Emily met us at the airport in Oslo, our first stop was at Kistefos, a cool sculpture garden about an hour NW of Oslo.
Kistefos is built on the grounds of an old pulp mill, which now hosts exhibits of historic industry mixed with contemporary art.
Look closely and you can see four Emilys!
“Energy-Matter-Space-Time”
The cheese slicer was invented in Lillehammer in 1925! This is a special one made for the 1994 Olympics and on display at Maihaugen.
Maihaugen is a huge living history museum in Lillehammer, with more than 200 buildings dating back to the 12th century.
Garmo Stave Church was built around 1150; this pulpit was crafted in 1738.
A closer look at Norwegian farm life …
…home life….
…and beautiful craftsmanship.
Of course we had to visit all of Lillehammer’s Olympic structures!
We admired the ski jump from the bottom …
…. and the top. (I can’t imagine strapping on skis and sliding down from here!)
It’s a big ski town. This statue honors the Birkebeiner warrior who skiied the crown prince to safety during a war in 1206.
Other diversions while in Lillehammer included a refreshing swimming hole …
…the most impossible mini golf course …
… and learning Kubb, a Norwegian stick-tossing game.
We also spent a fair amount of time admiring Lotta. (She gets carrots to fall out of this contraption!)
Lotta’s adorable room below the stairs.
But above all, we enjoyed long evenings hanging out and chatting in the backyard.
And just like that it was time to head back to Michigan! In Reykjavik we remembered we had a bunch of Euros, and wound up spending it all on some questionable candy. They are wild about the licorice in Iceland, and even go so far as to put it in their chocolate. Hmmm. If you ever want to try it, I’m sure we’ll still have some hidden in a cupboard somewhere.
Getting back to Glenn, Matthew jumped back into housing projects, Kayla jumped back in to On-Ramps, and we enjoyed about three weeks of relatively routine midwest summer days.
Coming up in our next post: Matthew gets a phone call, Kristina comes for a visit, and we head to Storm Lake via Minneapolis on a short but action-filled road trip!
In case you missed the last chapter, our heroes just finished a week in northern Germany and traveled by train to Berlin. What a city! We had four days jam-packed with history, culture, art, delicious food, and delightful conversation. We were so happy that niece Sophia could join us – ’twas such fun to explore and learn things with her!
We asked our friend Roald to pick some favorite parts of the city to visit. He describes Berlin not so much as a particular place, but as an overall experience. Well put. Everywhere there are beautiful parks, plus crazy good (and inexpensive) restaurants with tables on the sidewalk to watch the steady stream of people all going somewhere. There is art and architecture and delicious pastries and quiet places and lovely walks.
We had a fine hotel near Alexanderplatz very near train and bus stations, so getting around the city was pretty slick. Here’s a glance at the ground we covered: the blue line is a bike tour route we took; all the black circles with white stars show places we visited.
A great way to see the city and learn a lot in a short amount of time is to take a bike tour. In 3.5 hours we biked close to 20 km (12.4 miles) and saw fifteen or more notable Berlin sites: Museum Island, Konzerthaus Berlin, Checkpoint Charlie, Holocaust Memorial, Brandenburg Gate, Tiergarten & Victory Column, Reichstag, and Berlin Wall Memorial, plus more! Our guide was terrific – super informative and prepared with maps and photos.
Biking through Tiergarten toward the Victory Column.
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe provoked deep and somber reflection.
One of our guide’s many resources, showing West Berlin as an island within East Germany.
One of the last intact pieces of the Wall, including watchtower.
Photo of the Church of Reconciliation being destroyed by East Berlin in 1985. It was situated directly in the “death strip” of the Berlin Wall, making it an obstacle for the East German border control, so it had to go.
We invested two afternoons into some heavy museum visits: the Stasi Museum and the Jewish Museum. The Stasi Museum is located in the former headquarters of the Ministry for State Security (MfS) of East Germany from 1960-1989. Since 1990 and the reunification of Germany, the Stasi Museum has been used to inform visitors about the Stasi and its activities as a “protection and security organ” during the SED dictatorship. It was chilling to see the ways Erich Mielke (MfS) manipulated surveillance systems to support Head of State Erich Honecker as leader and primary decider across all aspects of East Germany: head of party and state, secretariat of the Central Committee and Politburo (where all political, economic, and other basic decisions were made), Chairman of the State Council and National Defense Council. We also saw the propaganda that was fed to the people in an attempt to build loyalty for the state and suppress any concerns that the SED had stolen their freedoms and right to choose their leaders. No one knew who might be working for the Stasi (one of the largest secret police agencies in the world): at it’s largest, it employed 91,000 people. Spouses, family members, best friends — no one knew who they could trust anymore, and we saw examples of the information collected by Stasi on their friends and neighbors. It was grim, I tell ya.
Diagram of how “the party is the state.” Erich Honecker was the head of state and Erich Mielke ran the Stasi, using his team and surveillance tools in dedicated loyalty to Honecker’s leadership.
Propaganda poster: “To learn from the Soviet people means to learn victory.”
The Jewish Museum is also incredible. Tracing the Jewish people all the way back to BC and how the diaspora spread around the world after encountering persecution after persecution, through the ~15 years of the Weimar Republic where Jews enjoyed a short stint of cultural flourishing before the Nazis took all that away, and of course the exhibitions about the 1930s-1940s were horrific. While not detailing the Holocaust specifically, the museum does an incredible job of showcasing the increasing discriminations and deportations that led up to trains filled with people shipped to concentration camps. How could this happen? How can this hatred and dehumanization still be happening today? Very, very disturbing perspective on humanity.
Most impressive of the displays: a giant room filled with banners listing all the anti-Jewish laws and restrictions enacted between 1933-1945.
Including things like “Jews are no longer permitted to take walks.”
“Jews must surrender all unnecessary clothes”
“Jews are prohibited from membership in choral societies.”
*whew* After both of these museum experiences we had to find beers and sunshine. We also enjoyed lots of other delicious food and drink across the City!
Post-museum beers and sunshine helped us process what we’d learned and journal about it.
Turkish doner is very big (pun intended) and very delicious!
Even the grim reaper knows doner.
Picnicking!
Cowei asian fusion located underneath the S-Bahn and right by the river. Delicious and fun!
We did not partake in this, but look! You can buy beer from a vending machine!
We neglected to take any food photos, but our favorite find was Peter Paul.
Delicious cocktails and really amazing food: German classics reinvented as tapas. Highly recommended!
An icon of Berlin is the Ampelmännchen (“little traffic light man”) in all the crosswalk signs. East and West Berlin had different traffic signals – Amelmann came from the East and stuck around.
We’ll wrap up this post with a few more sights from Berlin. Next post – our last stop in Europe: Lillehammer Norway!
East Gallery art, including “My God, Help Me Survive This Deadly Love” depicting a fraternal kiss as greeting and bond between Russian and East German leaders in 1979.
Volkspark Friedrichshain and the Fountain of Fairytales.
Dusky walk along the river, with disco dance party on the bank.
Museum Island at night: the Berlin Cathedral as seen by the “Lion Fighter”
(this entry will cover the end of June to the beginning of July)
Hello hello! We’re still here! Wow, the last six weeks have been pretty wild. Last weekend we realized we hadn’t been in the same state for two consecutive Sundays since Aug 17! In order: Michigan, Minnesota, Iowa, Illinois, Michigan, Pennsylvania, Virginia. We’re rewinding the clock more than two months for today’s post, but before we dive into that, here are a few headlines of our shenanigans since returning from Europe in late July:
+ Kayla and her sisters had a few days in Chicago to see niece Kristina in an opera performance + Then Kristina came to Michigan for a week + LOTS of projects at the lake house in Glenn, MI + Matthew landed a new part-time job in Alaska government, which took him to Anchorage for 48 hours + Several days in Minneapolis visiting family & friends + Eight days in Iowa with Kayla’s whole family, cleaning out the rest of Dad’s house and celebrating his years there (fortunately, with Dad participating!) + High school football game with friends (the highlight being their daughter as cheerleader / marching band) + Making garden preserves with Iris + Road trip from West Michigan across Ontario to Niagara Falls, then south to Virginia + Settling into a 3-week housesitting gig in Richmond, VA, which also gives us time with the Turner family + Weekend with niece Hannah in Richmond
Stories on all that coming later! But for now, let’s time travel back to late June, starting with the amazing week we spent in Northern Germany — in Hamburg and the Boettcher family homeland in the Altes Land.
Brief Boettcher History
For context: what makes this all so special is that somehow the Boettcher family has managed to maintain ties to relatives in Germany, dating all the way back to the late-1800s during the Prussian war when Kayla’s great-grandfather Ernst immigrated to the US with four of his six brothers. His eldest brother, Johann, stayed behind to continue farming, and Ernst’s youngest brother Heinrich was still too young to leave home. Eventually, though, after their mother died, Heinrich also came to the US along with their father, who is now buried in Zion Lutheran cemetery less than a mile from where Kayla’s dad was born in northwest Iowa.
For over a century and across 4 generations, the descendants of these brothers found ways to keep in touch, and today Kayla’s family has strong ties to Eike, who is Kayla’s 3rd cousin, the great-granddaughter of eldest brother Johann. Eike and her children (Tjerk and Insa) have all visited their US relatives (including an epic week where Eike and Insa came to visit us in Sitka!), and Kayla has been to Germany twice before. It definitely helps that Eike and her family are completely delightful and great fun to spend time with. So as we planned our trip to Europe, it was pretty obvious that we needed to go visit them.
Reunited with cousin Eike!
June 27 – 30: Hamburg
We started by flying from Edinburgh to Hamburg, where we were greeted by cousin Tjerk. He and his family instantly welcomed us into their home in the city, and we spent a few days exploring the sites.
We spent Saturday taking a long walk along Hamburg harbor.
Tjerk (at left) and Insa (lower right) along with one daughter each and two family friends.
Then we rode the ferries to see more of the harbor and city skyline.
Insa’s daughter Yara had an especially good time!
On Sunday, Eike came into the city and became our tour guide, starting with a walk through the Elbe tunnel.
Constructed in 1911, the tunnel connected workers from rural areas into Hamburg’s industry. Winding staircase to the right; today there’s an elevator option to travel the 80 feet underground.
The walls are adorned with terra cotta ornaments depicting river life. Mostly fish, but also rats and boots.
After our tunnel adventure, Eike led us on a tour related to her favorite band – the Beatles!
The Beatles had their first paying gigs in the red light district of Hamburg in the early 60s.
They played 48 nights straight at the Indra, then sleeping in the back of a little cinema up the street.
We ended our Beatles tour with a live Beatles musical. It was really well done and fun, even if it was all in German!
Boettcher isn’t such a rare name in this area!
Other exploring around Hamburg included a look at this old WW2 bunker that’s been transformed into offices, music venues, and a rooftop garden cafe.
July 1-5: Altes Land
On July 1, Kayla’s niece Sophia flew to Hamburg from Minneapolis to join us for the next 10 days in Germany. Eike came in from her village to pick us up at Tjerk’s, we all went to the airport to grab Sophia, and then we pointed toward the Altes Land with a quick visit at Ballinstadt Emigration Museum.
“Altes Land” translates as “old country” but the original term was “Olland,” referring to the Holland origins of the land: initially, Dutch settlers reclaimed the land from the sea with a complex system of dykes, resulting in rich lowlands perfect for agriculture. Eike and Insa live near each other in the village of Moorende, on the banks of the Este River just north of Buxtehude.
The view of the Este River from Eike’s house.
Matthew, Kayla, and Sophia shared a lovely apartment just down the road. Eike and her neighbor loaned us some bikes, and we spent most of these four days bicycling between Moorende and Buxtehude, enjoying time with Eike and Insa and all the beauty of Lower Saxony. We also had the treat of a professional tour guide, as Eike works part-time for the local tourism board, so we had official tours of Buxtehude and the stretch of Altes Land between there and Stade.
Sometimes we left the river bank and biked through the orchards.
But the most special of all experiences was a quick tour of Boettcher homelands and a “cousins lunch,” where we had the chance to meet Eike’s sister and several next generation cousins from their branch of the family.
This was truly a lovely few days, and it was over too soon. We’re so grateful to Eike, Insa, and Tjerk for hosting us, and for all the laughter, music, delightful conversation, and delicious food we shared. Hopefully we can find a way to be together again soon!
Lunch at the Emigration Museum shortly after Sophia arrived.
The fairy tale of the hare and the hedgehog is set in Buxtehude, and these two characters are EVERYwhere.
Proof that Eike is an official tourguide!
Obligatory photo for the organists in our family.
Official tour of Stade …
… which is another completely charming town.
We were invited to pick cherries.
Loads of cherries!
The pit boss! Sophia turned these into a crazy-delicious pie.
We had a music party in the garden, hosted by Eike’s friend (the owners of the apartment where we stayed). Turns out “Sweet Caroline” is an international favorite.
Doner! We had many doner sandwiches in Germany. So good.
Eike is a retired teacher, and always had a lecture ready for us. This one was on Boettcher history and the family churches (with notable baptisms and weddings) …
… like this one in Neetze.
Cousins lunch!
And a lecture for the whole family about how we’re connected. I love that Eike did this for us!!
(Close-up of the presentation)
Dinner at Insa’s house, with a backyard that opens into an apple orchard.
Back at Eike’s: An evening nightcap and reflection on our wonderful time together.
Editor’s Note: Did our last post show up in your inbox truncated or with messy text? There were a lot of photos … we might have blown up the internet. You can always (re)read our posts direct on our website: jetsetbetties.com
June 17-27 – we visited five Scottish islands (Mull, Staff, Iona, Islay, and Arran) plus one sweet river town (Peebles). Come along with us to relive the fun!
MULL, STAFFA, IONA While we were in Oban, we took a 10-hour, 3-island day trip via boat and bus. Highlights were visiting Fingal’s Cave on Staffa (inspiration for Mendelssohn’s “The Hebrides” overture) and the Iona Monastery.
The Mull portion was just a bus tour across the southern part, from Lochdon to Fionnphort.
Riding a very big bus on a single-lane road created some exciting moments!
Yield to the coos!
Then we boarded a boat for the sea portion of our tour.
Seals!
Cormorants!
Happy friends!
We approached the Isle of Staffa for a close look at the beautiful basalt columns …
… and several minutes of witnessing the mighty Atlantic swell boom against the back wall of Fingal’s Cave.
Puffins! These sweet birds only live in community during breeding season, and lucky us – they were all at home when we stopped by!
Next stop: Iona, home to Iona Nunnery and Monastery.
This island has housed a spiritual community for nearly 2,000 years, starting with a monastery founded by St Columbo in 563.
There is still an active faith and social justice community …
… in a peaceful, inspiring setting.
Very grateful for the opportunity to visit this beautiful place.
At the end of the day, the bus took us back across Mull and we hopped on a ferry back to Oban.
A view of our Airbnb house as we came back to town.
ISLAY Our favorite island of the five we visited was Islay, where we had a charming beach house, perfect weather, and plenty of peaty whisky!
Scotland has regular, reliable ferries connecting all their islands. We took good notes to share our recommendations with Alaska.
Islay is home to NINE distilleries; we passed three of them on approach, including Caol Ila, one of my favorites.
We were delighted to arrive at our beach house, absolutely as idyllic as it looked in the photos .
We had a lucky weather streak to enjoy this great spot!
When we weren’t on the beach, we were looking at it …
… or we were tasting whisky!
Three distilleries are within a two-mile stretch, and there’s a nice walking path to meander between tastings.
So you stroll along and come upon a new destination,
where you visit with your mates and appreciate the varietals of barley and peat.
Then you wander a bit further …
…. maybe you stop and sing to some cows (they were thoroughly unimpressed, btw) …
… and arrive at another destination.
At Lagavulin we took a tour and had a guided tasting.
The fourth distillery we visited was on the other side of the island and totally worth the drive.
The only fully independent distillery on Islay, Kilchoman employs more people than the other 8 combined, and makes one whisky from 100% ingredients and labor on Islay.
Nice picnic lunch in Port Ellen rounded out our Islay experience.
ARRAN After a thoroughly delightful 11 days together, we parted ways with Tom and Sarah after Islay and hopped another ferry to Arran.
I’m not kidding about the ferries – they’re so nice!
Also, very clever car deck – the upper level is a ramp and once they’ve loaded it, the ramp raises up to load another level of cars below.
We had some time to kill before we could catch a bus; fortunately the Lochranza Country Inn was nearby to provide lunch and a beer.
Bus stop troubadour.
Saturday afternoon on the bus to Brodick – what a party!
It was pretty rainy during our three days on Arran, which was OK because we needed some rest anyway.
But we did manage to get out for a wonderful afternoon walk …
… along the beach …
… to Brodick Castle.
These giant rhubarb plants make Devil’s Club dwarf in comparison!
On our return walk, we found a place to rest for a spell.
Best cocktails we had in Scotland!
There was foxglove everywhere,
and we even found salmonberries!
Dinner one night at Ormidale Hotel.
Dinner MANY nights consisted of meat pie, peas, and tatties.
There’s a jam session every Sunday at Ormidale, with the most welcoming set of regulars.
We played for at least 2 hours, and had a ball with these folks. The guy with his back to the camera really hollered out some Johnny Cash for the Americans.
PEEBLES When we told people we were going to Peebles, most of them said “WHY??” We had a hunch, and we were right – it’s a charming little town along the River Tweed, about 25 miles south of Edinburgh.
We stayed right downtown, at the Cross Keys Inn.
In addition to a full restaurant/bar space inside, there is plenty of outdoor seating in the back …
… and in the front!
Plus the art in the rooms was provided by local children. Charming!
These few days were pretty laid-back.
We took long walks along the river.
We saw black sheep,
white sheep,
and black & white sheep.
We also visited Traquair House, the oldest continually-inhabited residence in Scotland.
It’s not a castle, it’s a “fortified mansion.”
Backyard goats.
This place is a-MAZE-ing!
But seriously, we had fun trying to find our way through the maze. (It’s not a labyrinth!)
Whaddya know, they have a brewery also! Originally built in the 17th century, it was revived in 1965 and still uses the 200-year-old oak tuns.
COMING UP NEXT: Stay tuned for our next post, where we’ll take to to Germany!
We are excited to share tales of our European adventures! It’s impossible to believe it’s already been 2 months since we embarked on this journey, and also pretty wild that we’ve already been back in Michigan for three weeks. How do the days disappear so quickly!?
We had SUCH a wonderful time for the entirety of our trip, but especially in Scotland. We loved Scotland so much, in fact, that we’re going to split those stories into two posts. Today we’ll cover June 10-18, our time in Edinburgh, Pitlochry, and part of Oban.
Edinburgh
After a couple of long flights and being too tired to read local maps well (we took a couple of wrong turns while trying to find our apartment), we finally stumbled into our dear friends Tom and Sarah, just as they were coming out of our place! Thank goodness, because they had rested up enough to help us haul our bags and instruments up the 5 flights of stairs! We dropped our stuff, took much-needed showers, and then immediately went out for a fun and delicious evening.
The view from our apartment on the Royal Mile …
… and the stairs we had to climb to get there.
We visited Edinburgh Castle, of course!
Big bleacher seating at the gate, maybe some jousting later?
The buildings on this site date back to Medieval times, including Edinburgh’s oldest building: St Margaret’s Chapel, built in 1093.
Tom gave us a pretty impressive and succinct Scottish history while we were here, which naturally included endless defense of this fortress.
We did NOT stand in the hours-long line to see the Crown Jewels, however.
We took a bus tour to rest our feet and see more things!
Like the Sir Walter Scott monument.
We also visited the National Museum of Scotland.
Oh yes, there was whisky tasting! This was a nice sampling of Edinburgh distilleries.
We loved exploring the charming streets.
You never know what you might run into!
Including this filming crew. Turns out they were filming JJ Abrams’ upcoming film, tentatively titled “Ghostwriter”, starring Samuel L Jackson.
We also found a hidden garden bar.
But a true highlight of Edinburgh was the music tour we took. We hired a guide (“an actual Edinburgh musician!”) to take us to three music bars and tell us about the local music scene. In the tour description he mentioned that there could be opportunities for us to join the jams, so we brought our instruments along. And whaddya know, we played in two Edinburgh pubs!
We started at The Jazz Club, a noted jazz/blues/swing venue.
It’s a cool cellar bar, and pretty relaxed on a Thursday evening, so we sat right up by the stage.
John Hunt is a tremendous songwriter and artisan – check out his homemade guitar!
Next stop: Sandy Bell’s, “world-renowed folk bar”.
Sure enough, the place is packed, and there are a few musicians gathered around a small table, singing their songs.
And then we got to sing a couple of our songs! (Tom and Sarah also sang a couple of their songs.)
Finally, Captain’s Bar, a 200+-year-old pub with regular live music sessions.
Sure enough, we were once again invited to share a few tunes. First, Tom & Sarah …
… and then us!
PITLOCHRY
On June 13 we said goodbye to Edinburgh, and hopped in the car that Tom & Sarah rented (and Tom generously offered to drive!). Tom rewired his brain pretty quickly to drive on the left and we headed north. We stopped in Aberdour for a nice cafe lunch and walkabout the city, then on to Pitlochry, a beautiful little river town about 70 miles north of Edinburgh.
Within hours of arriving in Pitlochry, we were exploring the town and putting together a little garden picnic for later. As we were looking for a bottle of wine (or maybe whisky?) we were chatting with the shopkeeper at Robertson’s and revealed that we’re musicians. She practically begged us to come and play in the shop that evening — they were hosting an open house / tasting event and she hadn’t booked any music. We accepted! She paid us with a bottle of wine, and we played for an hour or so, mostly to an empty room (except for the shopkeeper who was VERY appreciative and enjoyed the music). It wasn’t until the last 10 minutes that people started to come in, but unfortunately we had to move on to get dinner before all the restaurants closed. (Note to future Scotland travelers: most restaurants close up by 9:00. Even in Edinburgh!)
The next couple of days were fairly rainy, and we were happy to take a slower pace. Matthew and I went on a nice long hike one day, and we found a couple other gems in the town. Very sweet!
Castles everywhere! The ruins of this one are in Aberdour.
Playing at Robertson’s, trying to help draw in some business for their open house.
The gardens at our B&B were lovely!
We had a nice evening picnic on the front lawn of our B&B.
Breakfast served every morning between 8-9:30. Slightly early for our vacation hours, but we stumbled downstairs to start the day right.
In true Southeast Alaska style, we braved the rain and took a wonderful long walk through the countryside.
We’re pretty sure that was a guard sheep. She just stared at us, making sure we weren’t going to molest the cows.
Just walking along a country lane.
And then next to the River Tummel.
TO OBAN, VIA KINGUSSIE
Our next stop was Oban, but we decided to take a meandering route to see a little of the highlands. Beautiful! We drove as far north as Kingussie, where we found a farmer’s market in action, a wonderful cheese shop, a very odd antiques/oddities store, and a scrummy lunch. All day we were on the quest for “hairy coos” (long-haired Shetland cows); lo-and-behold, there they were, near the Ruthven Barracks!
As soon as we arrived at Ruthven Barracks, we saw hairy coos from afar! (Spoiler alert: we manage to get much closer)
Ruthven Barracks are the ruins of an 18th century Jacobite fort.
Pretty interesting to explore …
… and some fun with portraiture!
HAIRY COOS!
Credit to Sarah for all these great photos.
Just look at ’em!
Happy traveling companions!
Yes, we bought meat out of the back of a van.
After saying goodbye to the hairy coos, we continued on to Oban, a nice seaside town. We rented a house less than a mile from downtown and enjoyed a couple of days exploring the area: Dunollie Castle, Fingal’s Dogstone, and McCaig Tower to name a few, plus Oban distillery of course! We also took a day trip to three neighboring islands, but I’m going to save that story for the next post.
View from McCaig’s Tower.
McCaig’s Tower – a crazy scheme around 1900 for a rich banker to build a family monument and keep masons employed through the winter.
Dunolie Castle in the background, and Fingal’s Dogstone, where Fingal the giant would tie up his dog, Bran, while he went hunting across the Hebrides. Bran was desperate to break free and you can see where he wore down the stone tugging on his leash near the bottom.
Sheep everywhere!
Great kitchen in our house (once we figured out how all the electric stuff worked!) and a fab homecooked dinner.
Another rainy stretch – we enjoyed hanging out in the living room and watching the boats come and go.
Oban, some of my favorites! We especially enjoyed the one aged in sherry casks.
OK, there’s some pictures and words to tide you over until our next post, wherein our heroes travel by sea, auto, and bus to some far off islands and to many more adventures.
Hello dear friends. We jumped right from our trip to Europe and back into our lives in Glenn, Michigan. Matthew is deep in some home improvement work for Iris’ house here, and Kayla is back into the daily grind of her job at On-Ramps. We have great intention to start posting some stories of our time abroad, but in the meantime…
Remember our trip through Kentucky back in April, and our meet-up with the Bluegrass Chapter of the Tearjerkers? Remember how we (and quite a few other folks) were gushing because “The Guy from Camp and Camera” was there? As he does, Mike interviewed folks around the campground about their trailers, and we were part of that. He wasn’t sure if the sound was OK when he toured our camper, and we didn’t see a video on his channel in the weeks following the gathering, so we assumed it didn’t make the cut.
We were wrong! Here’s the video! (We highly recommend watching the whole video – you’ll get a feel for these Tearjerker gatherings and tour one other camper. But if you don’t have time for the full video, our part starts at 14:59.)
Hello dear friends! We are back from our travels and firmly planted in Glenn MI for the next month or so. It will take us a bit to compile a full tale of our travels, so here’s a quick note to let you know that, yes, it was a fabulous trip, wherein we:
Spent 17 days traveling about in beautiful Scotland:
Spent 13 days in Germany exploring Hamburg, Estebrugge, and Berlin:
Spent 6 days in Norway in Lillehammer:
And wrapped it up with 3 days in Wyandotte, Michigan helping our friends sort through a few things:
Hello friends! It is a blustery day here on Lake Michigan as I type. The past months have been full, so much so that each week we procrastinate the blog seems to add ever more to the burden of getting one writ. But they say the best way to get going is to start, so here we are.
Do you ever feel like you just haven’t moved in a while?
In a couple weeks we head to Scotland (and Germany! and Norway!) for five weeks! We are joining dear friends Sarah and Tom for two weeks of Inn-to-Inn traveling in Scotland. Next we’ll head to Hamburg to check in on some German Boettchers, with dear niece Sophia joining us for some of that ride. We’ll close out with a trip to Lillehammer to visit some American friends who’ve tucked themselves up there for many years now. Whew!
But first we better do a little catching up on what’s been happening since our last post. Let’s see…
In March we took a quick trip to Chicago to celebrate Kayla’s birthday.
It was a beautiful weekend
we walked about 8 miles on Saturday!
admiring the architecture
and taking in all the sights. (can you find us in this picture?)
We enjoyed some fine dining …
…and some Chicago classics.
Then we headed down to Storm Lake with the Table Ease trailer to haul stuff, sell stuff, and give stuff away as the Boettcher Family prepares to sell Lloyd’s house.
We sorted through stuff …
made piles here …
and piles there …
then made new, more organized piles in the garage …
and a lot of that stuff found new homes!
It was a little chilly for this early-season garage sale.
And that garage ain’t heated!
But we left Dad’s house pretty tidy,
with just enough stuff to host one more family gathering,
which will happen later this summer.
In April we meandered our way back to Virginia (with the BettieMobile!) to help Matthew’s parents out with some projects there. This included getting the Turners’ boat trailer (which had been parked in a field for 10+ years) back into rolling condition.
Sorry for the blur. Here’s the target.
I like the composition of this shot.
There were some other things parked in the field as well.
Success!
From Coastal Virginia we drove to Kentucky to catch up with the Bluegrass Chapter of the TearJerkers at Big Bone Lick State Park. TearJerkers is a national “organization” (loosely defined!) for folks with teardrop campers. There are chapters across the US, and the active ones meet once a month somewhere in their area. They also have an online forum that mostly talks about meet-ups, but also serves as a place to ask questions and share advice on building campers, which Matthew took advantage of several times during our build. We’ve been talking about getting to one of these gatherings for two years now, and we finally found one that fit our route!
Another resource Matthew discovered while he was building our camper is a YouTube channel called Camp & Camera, where a guy goes around interviewing DIY camper builders and asking them about their special features and what they’d do differently. Matthew learned a lot from those interviews, and guess what!? That guy was at this gathering in KY and interviewed Matthew! He really liked Matthew’s custom-made awnings and curtain design. Unfortunately, the audio didn’t record very well, so that interview didn’t make it to the YouTube channel.
The TearJerkers host evening potlucks for all the teardrop campers. We won the day with our bahn mi sliders!
During the day, everyone wandered around the campground and admired the other trailers.
We were especially interested in other DIY – there were some amazing inventions!
Matthew being interviewed by Camp & Camera.
We took a sidetrip to historic Rabbit Hash, KY, right on the banks of the O-hi-o.
And that gets us to May! We’ve spent the whole month in Michigan, enjoying some on-again/off-again spring weather while working on more building projects.
Projects range from insulation & vapor barriers …
to replacing windows …
…and even creating new windows!
Now the garage/shop has a view of the lake too!
Big remodel being planned for the little cottage, which starts with a dumpster.
This bathroom will be redone this summer.
But the first project is building a murphy bed!
Matthew and Iris spent a week building the murphy bed frame …
…sanding it …
…and making it beautiful.
Just yesterday we installed it.
Voila!
In addition to the projects, we’re enjoying walks along the shore,
marveling at the trees that keep hanging on.
Spring blooms: irises, of course!
And lovely sunset porch times.
We also took two trips to northern Michigan – one to Traverse City and Leelanau, where we had a lovely combo of friends, family, and community theater; and a camping trip to Grand Marais, MI in the U.P.
In early May, we spent the weekend with Iris, our niece Hannah, and Iris’ dear friend David, who hosted us in his lovely home near Leland. We had some blustery dune walks …
some fun auto touring…
and nice reflective time enjoying the view of the Manitou Islands with Norman the wonder dog.
But the real highlight was seeing our friend Ed in his tremendous community theater performance.
Ed portrayed 9 characters in the show! It was magnificent,
and involved some splendid costuming!
Over Memorial Day weekend, we made the pilgrimage to Shorts Brewery in Elk Rapids, to pay homage to some of our favorite beers, notably: Psychedelic Cat Grass.
We camped 2 nights in a sweet township campground near Elk Rapids.
Not many pictures of our time in the UP because it was actually quite chilly! But we took a nice hike near Pictured Rocks,
caught some glimpses of Lake Superior,
and then managed to find a local watering hole.
Thanks as always for tuning in! Check back again in a couple of months for stories of our European escapades.