Colorado Friendscapes

Odometer reading: 12,347 miles

Hoo-weeee, we’re so involved in the present day-to-day that it’s hard to take time to reflect and share stories about our past adventures. But there are several lovely stories to tell about our 12 special days in Colorado. 

First – a reminder: we’re going to be housesitting in Portland, Oregon for FIVE WEEKS, starting June 28. If you’re around there or will be passing through, please let us know! Heck, you could even plan a trip and come visit us – we’ll have a guest room! Take special note of July 21: not only is it Matthew’s birthday, but the Jet Set Betties will be performing at Porchfest!

Okay, back to Colorado. Over the course of our 12 days there, we spent four nights in a nice state park/campground, four nights with our friend Carolyn in Palisade, two nights in the historic mining town of Redstone learning about the remarkable Mechau family, one glorious day in Glenwood Springs with one of Kayla’s Holden Village friends (from 25 years ago!), and two days on our friend Kenyon’s 120,000 acre ranch. 

Our “plans” for this time were very fluid, somewhat dependent upon when it could be possible to get to Kenyon (there is a creek to cross to get to his house and the mountain runoff was too much for us to get through until later in the month) and also being sensitive to Carolyn’s and Kenyon’s schedules. Highline State Park was our first stop on May 19 for one night, plus we returned there May 23-25. From Moab we took scenic Hwy 128 along the winding Colorado river to Cisco, a photogenic ghost town featured in Thelma and Louise, now home to a fledging artist studio and Buzzard’s Belly General Store, but not much else.

We drove a brief stint of I70 to cross the border and head through Mack to the state park. It was so nice to have a bit of shade under the trees after some brutal desert days. A lake, some nice bike trails, fun families to watch … We think to ourselves, “This place is so nice we could spend a couple days here.” At that time we didn’t know we’d be coming back a few days later – it worked out really well for resting and regrouping later in the week.

Saturday, May 20: We packed up to head to Carolyn’s, but first we stopped in Fruita for an outside-in-the-shade-brewery-lunch at the Copper Club plus ice cream from a sweet older lady with a tiny downtown shop (tip jar said “Grandma needs a vacation!”). Then we moved on to Palisade to visit Carolyn. 

Carolyn and her late husband Dorik Mechau are friends of ours from Sitka. They moved to Palisade several years ago to be near Dorik’s family and childhood home during his last couple of years. Our days with Carolyn were rich in conversation on all topics, but especially learning more about Dorik’s family and their relationship to this region (more on that in a moment). We also spent Sunday afternoon exploring Colorado National Monument. 

On May 26, after our few days back in Highline State Park, we returned to Palisade, and then followed Carolyn on I70 East to Glenwood Springs, then south on Hwys 82 and 133 to Redstone. WOW, what a fascinating place, in-and-of itself. The town was primarily built up in the late 1800s by John Cleveland Osgood – one of the elite “Robber Barons”. Osgood purchased large bodies of coal lands, built a railroad from Carbondale to Redstone and beyond, and then built the town of Redstone as a planned community for the mining families (88 cottages and numerous community/social buildings) so they would all just stay put and keep working. The town was complete in 1902; then in 1909 the mines closed. Attempts to make it a resort in the 20s failed because of the Depression, and by 1941 only 14 people lived there. 

Enter the Mechau family. Dorik’s father, Frank Mechau, grew up in Glenwood Springs, left Colorado to pursue his art career in NYC and Europe, but then returned to Colorado in 1938 and moved to Redstone to continue his career and start his family (Dorik was the 2nd of 4 children). During his brief 20-year career, Frank won federal Public Works mural commissions, three Guggenheim fellowships, taught at Columbia University, and traveled to the Caribbean and Panama during WWII to provide artistic documentation of the US Armed Forces participation in the war. He died of a heart attack in 1946 at age 42. 

Frank’s wife Paula held on to the family home in Redstone, and we got to stay there with Carolyn during our visit. We knew hints of this remarkable family story from previous conversations with Dorik and Carolyn, but being steeped in these stories while sleeping in that house was truly remarkable.  

Serendipitously, while we were in Redstone, one of Kayla’s dear friends from Holden Village times (in 1997!!) was camping in Glenwood Springs with her family for Memorial Day weekend! We met up with Sonja, Chazz, Claire, and Helen for a fantastic day of walking around town, throwing frisbees, and sitting by the fire at their campsite. The visit was all too short, but oh-so-excellent; a wonderful way to reconnect, and I’m sure we’ll find a way to spend more time with them.

On May 28, we went back to Palisade and squatted in Carolyn’s house while she went on to Boulder. We spent the afternoon regrouping and recharging, because the next day we were finally clear to get to Kenyon’s ranch! We left the Bettymobile in Palisade, just in case the ranch’s stream flow was still intense, but also because we had other sleeping options for the next day or two.

Kenyon is also a friend we met when he lived in Sitka and ran the Sitka Conservation Society. His life path since then led him to meet Mary Conover, owner of Mountain Island Ranch near Grand Junction, CO. Kenyon and Mary got married 10 years ago and have combined their love of the land, commitment to sustainable land management practices, and political savvy to join with other western ranchers and advocate for federal policies and support around land conservation and wildlife preservation. During our two days with them, we saw only a small portion of their 120,000 acres (combined private land with public grazing rights), and learned only a small bit about their work and philosophies, but it was incredibly fascinating and made us both want to spend more time there, learn more, and lend a hand. This might be a moment in our travels where we look back and wonder why we didn’t just stay longer … but, it was starting to get into the uncomfortable heat of summer, and we had tickets to an awesome music festival in a few days, so … we shared warm embraces and promises to return, and off we went. Back to Palisade to collect the Bettymobile and our refrigerateables, and then onward to Utah.

Canyonlands and Arches

Trip Odometer: 10,186

This report comes to you from Escalante, UT. We’ve settled here for five days to do some exploring and catch up on our reporting!

May 15 -16: We left Cortez and Mesa Verde and landed in Monticello, UT, which is right at the gateway to Canyonlands National Park.

May 17-18: We originally thought this would be when we went to our friend’s place in Colorado, but he’s so wilderness-y that to get to him you have to cross a creek (!!), and with the recent snowmelt and rain the water was running too high. So, instead we spent two days in Moab. The town of Moab itself? Meh. Too touristy and pretty bougie. Overpriced pub food and SO MANY ATV rentals. But the lands around it?!!? Astonishing.

On May 19 we moved on to Colorado for 12 days full of friends, art, history, ranching, and more rocky canyons. We need to unpack all those experiences a bit more before posting about them, but we’ll get back to you soon! One last Arches vista before we sign off:

More Desert Fun

Trip Odometer 9962

First a little note on the odometer readings. These are current miles, not the mileage at the point that we are describing in the blog. As I type this I am sitting in the shade in Palisade, Colorado (spoilers!) but I’ll be writing in this blog about events that happened many miles and almost two weeks ago. Sometime today we’ll have traveled 10,000 miles – with many more to go.

All this to say that we need to catch up on our bloggins, so here we go!

Wednesday, May 10: We decide to leave early from Joshua Tree. (That means the Bettie Mobile is rolling at 11:30 am.) We are heading to Wilhoit AZ, just outside of Prescott, where it looks like we’ll have a funky little campsite at Burro RV Park that has a funky little bar at its center. We take Hwy 62 and head east through a vast amount of … well … nothing. (It’s amazing how many different kinds of nothing we’ve driven through — each one has been unique!) Until we get about 30 miles west of the AZ border, where the highway parallels the railroad tracks, and we pass a strange shoe memorial.

Turns out this is a known desert feature, with mentions in several roadtripping websites, and even a space on Yelp: Shoe Fence of Rice. There is also miles and miles of “rock graffiti” – names spelled out in rocks or other detritus parallel to the railroad tracks. Fascinating.

We travel on to Parker (hello again, Arizona!) and Bouse, then take 90 through Salome and Aguila. Somewhere along this route we begin to see saguaro cactus poking out of the sand. Next we take 71 to Congress, and we are lifted out of the desert valley and into the mountains. By Yarnell we’ve climbed to 4840 feet from our start of 2800 in the valley.

The Burro RV park is a bust. Bar is closed, no one is around to tell us where to go. We shrug and decide to just head straight in to Prescott and try our luck there. The road from Wilhoit to Prescott is crazy, twisty, turny, and up! We climb up to 6000 ft by the time we pull into downtown. We can’t find a campground with showers that doesn’t charge one arm and one leg, so we decide to give ourselves a break and stay the night at a Holiday Inn. We take hot showers, eat cheese and crackers, and give ourselves a blissful night’s sleep.

May 11: we wake up tired, and realize that those windy and sun-blaring days in the desert have taken a physical toll on us. We decide to give ourselves another day at the hotel, with MT running errands while KB worked. In the afternoon we tour Prescott College, where Kayla received her Masters degree through a self-designed, limited-residency program while living and working at Mt Edgecumbe High School in Sitka. Maybe it was because this was almost (*gasp*) twenty years ago, and/or maybe it’s because Kayla only spent something like 16 total days on campus, but NONE of it looked familiar. The most important Prescott connection was Kayla’s beloved advisor, Jeanne James — unfortunately, Jeanne’s dementia made a face-to-face visit unadvisable, but Kayla was able to share her admiration and appreciation for Jeanne with her husband, Dale.

That evening it was take-out Thai and TV, then another long sleep.

May 12: We set out for adventure with a general direction but no plan for where we will land. Hwy 89 to 169 to I17 to Flagstaff for provisions. Did some research over lunch, and decided to camp at the Navaho National Monument, which we reached via Hwy 89 to 160 through Tuba City, then 594.

What a cool spot! We saw wild horses on our way up to the park. The National Monument campground is free (!!), mostly full, (though we find our spot) and comically unlevel. Picnic tables are chained to the ground at impossible angles. Fire pits would require heroic chair balancing to sit around. We take our bikes to an overlook and watch the sun go down.

May 13: We stopped at the monument’s visitor’s center and took a nice hike around the rim of a canyon to view an old Hopi pueblo. Then we got back on the road.

Hwy 160 through Kayenta, Dennehotso, and Red Mesa, where we see a sign for their local radio station, 89.7. For a little while we enjoy “Rock Me Gently, Rock Me Slowly” before we ride out of range.

For our many past days in the desert (and those to come) we’ve enjoyed the benefits of a fairly “wet” spring. The have been some rains, and there are flowers everywhere. It seems as though each valley, ridge, and canyon has its own collection of flowers that add a little color to the landscape – though it is hard to take a picture that does justice. Along the drive we are both struck by a scene of white goats eating purple flowers against a red sand background.

An attempt to capture the flowering desert in a picture.

We go through Teec Nos Pos and then arrive at Four Corners – where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah all meet. We think this would be an interesting place to have lunch until we are greeted with the $8 per person fee to enter a flat piece of desert surrounded by industrial hardware where the only attraction is that is sits on a geopolitical boundary. That’s a hard “nope”. We eat our sandwiches on the side of the road.

We cross into Colorado and land in Cortez, where we arrive at a campground that was originally a kids’ bible camp and is now more of a hippie collective that sits in the shadow of Mesa Verde National Park. As soon as we park the camper, it begins to thunderstorm and hail. Like, seriously. We spend the evening in the camper dining on cheese, hummus, ham, and crackers. And Jameson.

Storms roll over Mesa Verde National Park, and the Bettymobile.

May 14: We spent the day exploring Mesa Verde National Park, looking at the remains of communities inhabited by the Ancestral Pueblo people and staring in awe at the incredible rock cliffs.

We’ll leave it there for now, but stay tuned for a quick post about Canyonlands and Arches – coming soon!

Monte Rio to Joshua Tree

Trip Odometer: 9,833 (Today or tomorrow will be a banner day!)

We’ve been through some desert lands and incredible national parks since our last dispatch. This one is coming to you from Moab, Utah. But there’s a lot of ground to cover — let’s go back in time a few weeks.

Sunday, April 30: After saying goodbye to Oliver the pig and the alpacas in Monte Rio, we traveled straight to Vacaville, CA to spend some time with our dear friend Brian, who we first met many years ago when he was a visiting percussionist with the Juneau Symphony.

Twyla (the car) got a full check up. She’s doing great, though there is a small oil leak we will have to watch. Our time in Vacaville was spent taking some short day trips, working on the camper, and of course spending time with Brian!

Saturday, May 6: It was time to head on, so we loaded up and hit the highway. We stayed clear of (but often close to) the interstate through Rio Vista, Lodi, Stockton, and Tipton. This is agricultural land, for sure.

Just past Porterville we stayed the night at a campground on Lake Success, an Army Corps of Engineers project. It gave us a chance to test out the awning (still a work in progress) and enjoy a well-lit campground, thanks to our neighbor who brought enough wattage to light a professional baseball game.

The next day we took I65 to Bakersfield, listening to Buck Owens the whole way.

From there we hopped on East 58 and quickly gained 2000 ft, leaving the orchards for desert. In Barstow we picked up 247 to Lucerne, then a hard left to Joshua Tree Lake RV park for three nights.

The first night we just enjoyed the RV park. It’s a funky little family-owned campground – they’re not just providing campsites and restrooms, they also produce mini-festivals (we *just* missed a small folk festival and songwriting workshop!) and have been thoughtful about tree plantings and art placement. Plus a pond with lots of ducks!

Day two: Kayla did office work and Matthew worked on the camper. Then in the afternoon we drove the length of Joshua Tree National Park, with a few short excursions. What a weird and wild landscape!

Pro tips for visiting Joshua Tree: If you’re driving through in late afternoon, drive west to east (from Joshua Tree to 29 Palms) so the setting sun is behind you and shining on the rock formations as you drive toward them (and the sun’s not in your eyes!). If you’re driving through in the morning, well … go the other direction! Also, if you like the band U2, we highly recommend cueing up their Joshua Tree album – it really did reflect the vast majesty of this incredible park full of Seussian trees and big rock piles.

Our third day in Joshua Tree – there was a prediction of high winds in the afternoon, so we hit the park “early” for some nice hikes. (I think we entered the park at 9:30 am, so we’re still not exactly early birds!) The winds came as predicted, and whoo boy was it brutal. We kept shelter in our tent, and managed to make dinner.

The Desert Plant and Flower Series

After Joshua Tree … well … we’ve covered some incredible ground over the last 10 days! Stay tuned for an upcoming post about our visit to Navajo National Monument, plus Mesa Verde, Canyonlands, and Arches National Parks! (Spoiler: they’re all amazing!!) Right now, we’re about to head out of Moab and make our way to some friends around the Grand Junction, CO area. Thanks for following along – sending you big hugs!!

Seattle to Monte Rio

Sugar and Salt, the Alpacas

Trip Odometer: 7790

Greetings from Vacaville, CA! We’ve been settled in here in Cowtown, Sonoma County, since April 30. We are staying with our friend Brian Simpson, getting ready for a big push into the desert. Twyla (the car) got her check up, so she’s eager to get some miles under those freshly rotated tires. Matthew is hoping to install the awnings on the Betty Mobile, if it can just get up to 60 degrees and stay there for a while. We are likely pointing southeastward this Friday, May 5, heading toward northern Arizona, southern Utah, and western Colorado.

Wednesday, April 19 – Seattle: We packed up the car, got the Betty Mobile in Renton, and loaded up for a big day of driving. First stop was Portland to pick up the awnings we had made at Hayden Island Canvas. They get a big thumbs up from me for being willing to work with my ideas. I must have called eight or more other boat canvas outfits that didn’t want to hear another word from me once I said “camper.” We had lunch nearby at

home of the Glen Frye chicken sandwich (excellent). It is a pretty amazing place, so if you ever find yourself in the area…

North of Corvalis the I5 traffic got stupid, so we started blazing a trail that took us through Tangent, Stedd, Halsey, Harrisburg, Junction City, Noti, Walton, Mapleton, and finally to the coast at Florence. From there we caught beautiful Hwy 101 to Winchester Bay and the Oregon Dunes Recreation Area. This place is clearly set up for high volume tourism, but in the chilly shoulder season it was mostly empty.

April 20: Another day of driving for distance. It was a rainy day. We drove 101 to Coos Bay and had coffee at “So It Goes” cafe. Further on in Bandon we drove around the cute town and had oatmeal and biscuits at the Rolling Pin. Kayla needed to do a zoom meeting, but the library was closed. She tried and failed to do it using her cell phone. That’s the first oops she has had with connectivity and her job (but she still managed to connect with audio-only).

We finally left the rain behind as we got to the Sue-Meg Campground in Trinidad, CA. We had at one point reserved a space here for four nights, but gave that up when we decided to stay longer in Seattle. Still, one night there was special.

April 21-22: It was time to hustle to Monte Rio and our next housesitting gig. We continued on Hwy 101, but south of Eureka it meanders away from the coast and starts moving inland. About one hour out of Trinidad we leave the redwood forests and by the time we got to Hopland, we are clearly in wine country.

That evening we arrive at Karen and Bev’s house. We will have 31 animals to care for, and we get a good course in their care and routine that evening and the next day. Our hosts and their menagerie of animals are all lovely.

April 23-29: We quickly settle into the routine at Monte Rio and love it. The weather is mostly sunny, though sometimes with big wind. One day we head to the beach and it nearly blows us away. We stayed out for maybe 30 minutes, and the windchill just about froze our brains. Yet, when get back to the house, it feels sunny and calm. The house is nestled on the leeward side of the hill among the redwoods, blocking that pesky wind. Over the course of the week, we find that our favorite place to be is at the house among the critters.

Still, we did venture out a few more times. We had a nice day trip to Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Preserve. They just come right out and say it on a sign, “Yeah, our redwoods aren’t as big as the ones up in Humboldt County, but what are you gonna do?” We also headed out one evening to nearby Guerneville to grab a bite and catch a local antiquarian band playing jazz standards and a few surprises. We grab some homemade ice cream at the shop nearby that used to be a bank. You can even hang out and eat your cone in the vault.

And here’s a bonus video of Oliver. He likes to sleep under a bunch of blankets on the porch.

First Quarter Report

Thank you for this opportunity to provide a report of the Jet Set Betties’ activities in their first quarter of traveling. This is widely considered to be a successful quarter, with an abundance of friends and family met, beautiful and important places visited, and wonderful cocktails and meals consumed. Let’s take a look at the numbers:

Miles Traveled: 6,500

Gas Expense: $1,485

While 6500 miles will take its toll on any vehicle (especially when towing a Bettie Mobile!), Twyla Von Wienerschnitzel, our 2016 VW Touareg, is holding up well. We’ve seen some cosmetic damage to the front from rocks and other road debris. We also significantly damaged some sort of plastic fairing on the front underside, likely after hitting a giant snow ball in the road in Somerset, CA. This was quickly repaired with Gorilla Tape and has caused no further issues. Twyla will be getting a full checkup in the upcoming week before the Betties set out for their next big adventures.

Route Traveled

Please refer to Map 1, below, for a detail of the roads taken. This map extends beyond the first quarter (spoilers!) which would have ended two weeks ago while the Betties were in Seattle. The visual below is compromised for easy web loading. If you would like the full-scale map please click here.

From the map we can see that the Betties traveled significant miles in few days during the initial phase of their trip in January. This is certainly not the Betties’ preferred pace, but due to delays in the construction of The Bettie Mobile (their teardrop trailer), the Betties needed to travel more quickly than planned to honor their late-January scheduled appearances in southern Arizona and California.

The route becomes more revealing when we look at weather data and overnight choices, in Graph 1, below:

Note that four of the camping overnights occurred in weather where the low temperature was below freezing (as low as 17 degrees Fahrenheit). The Betties were quite comfortable in the cabin of their camper during these low temperatures, however other basic camping functions such as cooking, eating, hanging out, and toileting were hindered by the extreme cold.

Please refer to Chart 2 for a detailed account of where the Betties spent their nights (in a total of 18 different beds):

The Betties were somewhat disappointed in the relatively low number of camping nights, given the anticipation of completing the Bettie Mobile. However, when we take into account the inclement weather during a large portion of the 1st quarter, we feel that this is excusable. And the unexpected addition of housesitting gigs has added new friends and countless curiosities to their stories! The Betties anticipate far more camping nights in the second quarter, as we head into the spring and summer seasons. Of note is the amount of time we have spent with friends & family, which met or exceeded our goals for this quarter – we’ve seen and hugged 30 of you so far!

Final Highlights

Below is a chart of some other highlights of the first quarter. These are not chosen for any particular merit or in any particular order, but serve to highlight the unexpected pleasures and discoveries of travel.

We thank you for your encouragement and support through this first quarter of our journey, and look forward to providing more facts and insights as our travel continues. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to use the form below or contact us directly. We look forward to hearing from you, and perhaps seeing you in the next quarter!

Sincerely (and with love from) ~ The Jet Set Betties!

Favorite recreation:

  • Hiking Chiricahua Mountains
  • Hanging out on Tourmaline Beach
  • The Slot in Anza Borrego
  • Biking around Mission Bay
  • Balboa Park
  • The Diaries of Leonardo DaVinci (play seen at The Old Globe in San Diego)
  • Point Loma
  • Hiking in Coloma CA (Marshall Gold State Park)
  • Rumsey Canyon
  • Throwing sticks for Chloe, and Lizzie + Molly
  • Bowling with Natalie and her family
  • Music nights with Bill & Poppy (+ friends)
  • Columbia River gorge, especially Vista House
  • Deception Pass – Whidbey Island
  • Ebey’s Landing – Whidbey Island
  • Jon’s senior recital & seeing Pericles at Cornish – Seattle
  • Centennial Park + Elliot Bay trail – Seattle
  • Big long walks all over downtown and Seattle Center
  • Seward Park – Seattle

Treacherous driving days:

  • Tucson to San Diego (Jan 29) – heavy rain/snowfall in San Diego Mountains
  • Redlands to Lodi (Feb 23) – severe weather warnings in the Sierra Nevadas, so we went west before going north
  • Day One in Somerset, CA (Feb 24) – winding hilly road in the snow!
  • Somerset to Placerville (Feb 27) – not a long drive but we had to stall for hours in heavy snowfall until our Airbnb was ready and then drive up some steep hills
  • Placerville to Ashland (March 5) – winter storm warning in I5 mountain passes, with warnings that we’d be turned back if we didn’t have chains (notably: 1-3 FEET of snow possible at Mt Shasta!) – once again, we went west before going north, all the way to Highway 101, but then found out the storm had passed and I5 was clear, so we backtracked and hightailed it north
  • Ashland to Bend (March 6) – unforecasted blizzard on a secondary mountain road!
  • Bend OR, pretty much every day – so much snow! Grateful for the use of our host’s Subaru with snow tires to get up and down their hills

Favorite Eats

  • City Taco – Pacific Beach, San Diego
  • Ambrogio 15 – Pacific Beach, San Diego
  • Ceviche and Beer – Mission Beach, San Diego
  • Aroi Mak Mak – Redlands CA
  • Pete’s Breakfast House – Ventura CA
  • Osteria La Briccola – Ashland OR
  • Muddy Rudder – Portland
  • Dim sum at Jade Garden – Seattle
  • Jackalope – Columbia City (Seattle)
  • Ribs smoked by Matthew on the Traeger grill in Placerville CA
  • Betty – Seattle

Best Drinks

  • The Tavern – Coronado Island, San Diego
  • El Prez – Pacific Beach, San Diego
  • Aroi Mak Mak – Redlands CA
  • Monkey Puzzle whiskey – McMenamin’s (Bend + everywhere)
  • Sapphire Hotel – Portland
  • Virginia Inn – Seattle
  • The Sitting Room – Seattle

Whidbey + Seattle

Trip Odometer: 7,400

Hi friends! Wow, the past few weeks have flown by! I’m happy to report that we finally found spring in Seattle (beautiful flower/tree blossoms!) and we’ve just arrived at our next housesitting gig near Santa Rosa CA, where the forecast calls for a week of sunshine and mid-70s!

Last weekend we realized we’ve been on the road for 3 months (!!!) so we’re working on a quarterly report. (Because, of course we are!) Stay tuned for that in the days to come.

Also, FYI: we just committed to housesitting in Portland, Oregon for FIVE WEEKS (June 25 – Aug 5)!! PLUS, we’re signing up to participate in the Milwaukie Porchfest on July 21 – the Jet Set Betties will perform a two-hour live show from the driveway of our host’s home! Let us know if you can stop by, we’ll make it a party. (Plus, that day happens to be Matthew’s birthday …)

For now, here are some photos and quick stories about our time in Washington.

Our original plan was to spend only a couple extra days in Seattle after Jon’s events. We thought we’d get back into camping, perhaps explore the Olympic Peninsula, or the WA/OR coastline … HOWEVER (and we were NOT surprised), weather forecasts once again looked miserable. So we decided to stay in Seattle, which was LOVELY on so many levels.

Lovely People of Portland

Trip Odometer: 6023

Once upon a time, way back in aught-8, we took a trip to the charming village of Yelapa, a small town in Mexico accessible only by water taxi from Puerto Vallarta. We brought a guitar and a violin with us, so we could strum some tunes in the heat of mid-day and after the sun had set. Shortly after our arrival, we spied another couple toting instrument cases up and down the beach … and they took notice of us as well. Before long, we were getting together after dinner and swapping tunes. We had so much fun with them, we planned another beach music fest in 2013, and again in 2016. In 2013, we even managed to play in a local bar!

Somewhere in Yelapa

This serendipitous friendship has endured, and Bill and Poppy were a big magnet drawing us toward Portland a couple of weeks ago. We once again spent the evenings enjoying delicious meals and swapping tunes.

We also got outside and enjoyed some natural beauty:

Plus a couple of days in the big city, where we met up with my dear college pal Jamie for dinner at the Sapphire Hotel!

Ok, and here’s the random story of the year: one Saturday afternoon, Bill and Poppy took us to a house/garage concert, featuring singer/songwriter Jim Faddis (member of the bands Prairie Flyer and FarmStrong, if you follow such things) and monster bluegrass guitarist Dale Adkins (who toured with Kate MacKenzie). What a neat opportunity – they were really amazing!

There were only about 60 people in attendance, and because most of them are part of the same musical circles as Bill and Poppy, we met several other folks. After the concert, one of our new acquaintances said to us, “You should meet Lee – she used to live in Alaska.” Here’s the rest of the conversation:

Lee (to Kayla): Where did you live in Alaska?
Kayla: Sitka.
Lee: Oh, Sitka! I had the best job for awhile in Sitka. I was the administrative director for a small little chamber music festival there – the Sitka Summer Music Festival.
Kayla (eyes widening): You’ve got to be kidding me. I WAS THE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF THE SITKA SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVAL!!!

Ummm … yup. Turns out that “Lee” is Wendy Kamras, who worked for the Festival for a few years in the late 90s (I believe). WHAT ARE THE ODDS? There are – literally – no more than 10 people in the world who have had this job, and two of them end up together at a small bluegrass house concert one Saturday afternoon in April … in PORTLAND??

20% of the Sitka Music Festival’s Executive Directors meet at a bluegrass concert in Portland OR.

So, Portland was lovely to us, through and through. Many, many thanks to Bill and Poppy for the generous hospitality, local touring, fun food & conversation, and allllllll the music. Already looking forward to next time with you!

High Desert Bends

North of Chico CA, heading towards the Mt. Shasta pass.

Trip Odometer: 5,194

Monday Feb 27 – Sat Mar 4: We departed our housesitting gig but couldn’t find anywhere within a day’s drive to camp without rain, snow, and/or 30-degree temps, so we booked a cozy AirBnB in Diamond Springs, just a few miles up the road. The first two days there were cold, with precipitation alternating between rain and snow. Later in the week we finally got some sunny days with a few nice walks on nearby trails. But by Friday we were back in the rain again. Our Airbnb came with a nice backyard and a Traeger smoker … Matthew tried it out and made a couple of DELICIOUS dinners!

All of this weather has revealed a slow leak in the camper roof (!!!) – looks like it is getting in where the roof panels butt together. It is too cold and wet to do much about it at this point, but we are keeping an eye on it.

Saturday, March 5: We headed out of Diamond Springs for Ashland, Oregon. Yet another drive where there was a winter storm warning for a mountain pass we needed to cross. In this case, Mt Shasta pass. The warnings were so dire in the morning that we decided to trade the straight-shot four-hour drive through the pass for an eight-hour drive along the coast that would skip the mountains and the storms.

Our route was Folsom, Sacremento, Woodland, then Hwy 16 through Esparto, Capay, Brooks, and Rumsey Canyon.

“Wow” for Rumsey Canyon. We don’t have a photo to do it justice. Is was just miles of windy road with these steep green hills and fast running streams. We’ve made a note to come back here and camp when we can.

Along Rumsey Canyon

Then we picked up Hwy 20 and drove along the shores of Clear Lake to reach Hwy 101, which we would then take north for the long drive to Ashland. At this point we called our Ashland host – she said the weather was blue skies! She had hung her laundry outside to dry! We had a choice to make – continue another five-plus hours on our current route, or backtrack for the shorter route and risk the mountain pass. Even with the backtrack, we would get there sooner, so we made the u-turn!

Back we went through Lucern and Clear Lake, then on 20 East to Williams, which was very beautiful with all the almond trees in bloom. Then onto good old I5 through Redding, Shasta Lake, Mt Shasta (by the time we got here the weather alert had been removed – the drive was fine), Yreka (capital of the State of Jefferson), Mt Siskiyou, and then Ashland!

We had a lovely evening with our friend, Alaskan-turned-Ashlander, the amazing Sandy Burd.

March 6: We had made the long drive to Ashland so that our last leg to Bend, Oregon would be a relatively short one. And, amazingly, there were no winter storm warnings when we set out this morning! We took what looked like a scenic route called Dead Indian Memorial Road.

It turned out that the road put us back up in the 4000 ft altitude! We saw very few cars, and these only at the start of our trip. The further we got down the road, the higher the snow, the narrower the road. And then there were intermittent blizzards.

During a non-blizzard part of the drive.

But we made it through, spurred off the road to Keno, then Hwy 66 to Klamath Falls and Hwy 97 to Bend.

Ice and road grit caked onto the Bettie Mobile.

In Bend, we met the folks we would be pet sitting for, as well as Mollie and Lizzie, the doggos. We settled in for a nice dinner together. Claus and Annette left at 3:00 am the next morning, and we had a fabulous week in their beautiful home, hanging out with Lizzie and Molly, exploring Bend, and staying out of bad weather!

We also had the good fortune to spend time with dear friend Natalie – one of Kayla’s first and enduring Sitka friendships. Natalie and her family now live in Bend, so we could meet up for walks, dinner, river sauna, a quick trip to Sisters, and even a bowling birthday party for Nat’s daughter!

Bend is just under 4000 ft above sea level, and we’re here to testify: altitude is no joke. Though we spent a week there, neither of us ever felt like we acclimated to the altitude. We would get out of breath just doing simple things.

And all that changed on March 16! We pointed the Bettie Mobile downhill and headed towards Portland! And that’s a post for another time.